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NATIONAL PIE DAY
My friend Monty is what I call a “liver of life”. He grabs on. He adds extra sauce. His easy, open laugh can’t help but make you smile and want to join the parade for awhile. Plus, Monty’s as short as I am. That’s a nice trait.
Monty Lunn and I met when our daughters were both in the first grade and a group of us dads from the elementary school started an unofficial “Indian Princesses” group. Sort of a “girl-scouts-with-native-American-accoutrements” type of thing without the dues requirement. The girls did crafts. The girls made a giant teepee. The dads poured good wine.
Monty knows good wine, as he hails from Southeastern Louisiana and owned a couple of watering holes off Jackson Square in New Orleans. This guy is a true native. Aaron Neville sang at his wedding from the rear balcony of the famous St. Louis Cathedral. Monty also knows and cooks good food. I once took a camping trip up the coast toward the Santa Barbara wine country. Monty flew in from Philly to meet us, drove up from LA, stopping along the way for supplies, and surprised us as we returned from the horseshoe pits with a memorable batch of crawfish pasta bathed in a spicy cream sauce.
Through his food and bar businesses and infectious personality, Monty met all the local restaurant royalty, including Ruth Chris, the original owner of the famous politico steakhouse, now with locations from Beverly Hills to Tokyo to Dubai. Monty’s love and appreciation of good, full-flavored food is irresistible and when I first traveled to the Crescent City to attend Jazzfest, he insisted I take along a list of required restaurants, joints, dives and bars through which to taste my way. Over the years, I have tried them all and gone on to patronize most of the revered spots: large, small, expensive, affordable, new, old, traditional, trendy. One thing is sure; it’s nearly impossible to have a bad meal in the Big Easy.
Still, there are three places that I make sure to visit every time I’m, well, visiting. Three restaurants that define and outline the best of New Orleans cuisine. Each in its own way provides an honest, authentic and extraordinary feast. So here, listed in strongly advised visiting order, are my top picks.
Begin with oysters and a bloody Mary at Felix’s on Iberville, just at the edge of the French Quarter. People will tell you to eat at Acme across the street. Indeed, the line at Acme will be long and the food is excellent, but Felix’s is one of a kind. The joint is probably 70 years old and feels like it could be 100, with a “belly up to the bar” madness, an impossibly weathered vibe and the fattest, juiciest, freshest oysters imaginable. Fight your way in and bypass the menu. Get ‘em raw, mix your own cocktail sauce, grab some saltines and keep your elbows wide, so you don’t get pushed from your spot. When you’re filled to the brim, simply give the shucker a nod, he’ll count up the empty shells stacked in front of your little piece of real estate and write you a ticket. You’ll walk out with the Funky Meters grooving in your head.
Next, reserve a spot for brunch at Commander’s Palace, the flagship restaurant of the storied Brennan family. Derided as a tourist trap, brave it anyway. There is good reason this venerable eatery is so reviewed and revered - they simply do everything right. From the moment you enter across from the cemetery, passing under the brightly striped awning that looms over the creased, wooden veranda, you will feel as if you have returned home and been welcomed as a long lost relative. And these folks will kill and serve to you the fatted calf, pig, fish, turtle and anything else that flies, swims or has a gait. All of it with a gentleman’s care and loads of butter, cream and spice. Saturday and Sunday brunch are especially elegant with the strolling jazz musicians. Wear a jacket and loosen your belt, for subsequently you will be so full of contentment as to ask which papered hallway leads to the sleeping rooms.
The final stop will be dinner at Brigtsen’s, uptown near the riverbend. Set in a small Victorian cottage, Frank Brigtsen is at the helm every night, serving the most satisfying Cajun/Creole dishes imaginable from his tiny kitchen. Each dining room is a humble, former sitting area or parlor with few tables, warm, kind lighting and intimate setting. The menu is not large, but rich, earthy and deep with flavor. This is hardly granddaddy’s gumbo, but it’s not high falutin’ either. Shrimp bisque with butternut squash, pork tenderloin with sweet potato dirty rice and a sauce made from the pork debris, and pecan pie. Frank tutored as a youngster under Paul Prudhomme, who was then chef de cuisine at Commander’s Palace in 1979. The following year, when Paul left to open K-Paul’s in the Quarter, he took Frank along, eventually helping him set up his own restaurant, where Frank earned a James Beard award. The flavors of a revitalized, accessible New Orleans in every bite makes Brigtsen’s my favorite tasting experience anywhere. There is nothing brash or self-serving here. There is no chef’s menu with wine pairings. But it is a diamond. It is a perfect blues solo. It is a must.
I had a serendipitous discovery a few months ago. While searching online for some news of Frank Brigtsen, I came upon a video in which he teaches, in fine detail, the preparation of his pecan pie. A sumptuous, intense but ultimately simple handmade pie I have eaten on every visit to his restaurant. Every one. And now, I joyfully make it at home. But beware the inexorable pull of this pie. Even after serving it to guests, when the house is again quiet and the kitchen cleaned and restored to order, I stand, with a full stomach, overeating yet another piece right from the pan. It is that good. With kudos to Frank, I pay it forward to you. Happy National Pie Day…
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